@rich and @ChrisGammell Thank you both so much!
I thought I may be overthinking this.
A couple of things that I should have probably stated from the beginning:
I am using a Hakko FX-888d with a 2.4mm chisel tip (T18-D24 I believe, although I have the T18-D type tips in all possible sizes except 3mm and 3.2mm), lead free SN100C solder (not the original, but one by Balver Zinn, I don’t remember on top of my head their particular model number, I believe something like LN5357NC) in 0.3mm thickness with flux core (I believe 2.2% but don’t remember the type of flux) and I solder at 350C, I believe the tips are genuine.
My tip and brass sponges are new (have been used a couple of times so far
I seem to be getting good joints and no weird behavior from the tip or the solder joints, except 1 thing:
Sometimes touching the solder to the pad after holding the tip to the pad and component leg/lead for about a second, the solder doesn’t start instantly (but i believe i may have not touched the component lead with it as well, not sure, need to get a magnifying glass or something) and i either have to touch the solder to the tip to get it started or wait about a second and a half loger. Although I have been soldering eBay practice boards with questionable quality and who knows what kind of plating.
Is this normal?
My tip tinning paste is again by Hakko, can’t remember the model number. I beliene FS-100?
When I talk about retinning the tip after every couple of joints, I should have mentioned that I also clean it after every couple of joints (before and after retinning it).
I am sure I am missing something but I can’t remember right now.
Let me recap to see if I’m understanding the what would be a good procedure (perhaps not the only viable one). Let me know if this seems corret/a good way to do/keep doig things:
I turn on the iron, wait for it to reach the 350 (or chosen temperature), when I am ready to start soldering, clean the blob of solder I left on the tip last time before shutting the station off, clean it so there’s not much solder left on the tip but doesn’t have to neccessarily be “coating tin”, solder a couple of joints, clean it again, re-thin it (and it’s ok if you put a lot of solder) covering the whole iron plated part of the tip, clean it again, so at least there’s not a blob of solder on it?
Also, any time you notice oxidation on the tip or part of it and you can’t tin it with just solder so it starts forming bubbles instead, don’t be afraid to “shove it” into the tinning paste?
Clean not right after every couple of solder joints but right before the next one (after those few ones) to not leave it hot and exposed?
Also, once again, thank you so much! Everyone makes videos about tin, solder, clean, tin, etc but it’s hard findig info on how much should you clean and tin, which of the two should be the last step and whether it actually matters.
Also, thank you for the NASA guide! I have been wondering about building, soldering, making, etc hardware for space and extreme conditions, ever since I found out that the requirements are different than the regular.